Propeller dings and blade edges that aren't smooth cost you money! Whenever you strike an underwater object or just hit a sand bar, always "dress" the blade edges with a file to remove any rough spots. These rough edges cause the water flow to be interrupted, causing the prop to be less efficient as it can't push as much water. Anything you can't easily remove with a good file should be taken care of by your local competent prop shop.

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We STRONGLY suggest that you buy a Stainless Steel propeller. Stainless is more expensive but yields much better performance than an aluminum prop and they are far stronger. A brush with the bottom with a Stainless Prop will be hardly noticeable especially in sand or mud which we have plenty of here. The same brush with an aluminum propeller will yield bent or broken blades. If you opt for aluminum – buy at least 2 of them so you can change a damaged one right away to minimize vibration damage to your expensive outboard. Don’t get me wrong, a Stainless prop can be damaged but it takes a lot to do so. Don’t be misled by tales of stainless props causing damage to the outboard if an object is struck while underway. All non-racing propellers have a rubber cushion, called a “hub” inserted between the propshaft and the propeller housing. This rubber cushion will break loose (afterwards referred to as “spun prop” or a “spun hub”) sacrificing itself after an impact, kind of like an airbag in your car. “Spun props” and damaged props can easily be repaired at a competent prop shop.

    When negotiating a deal (this only works on a new boat bought at a boat dealer), be sure to specify that you want a stainless propeller with the right to exchange that propeller for a different pitch if need be. Correct prop pitch is CRUCIAL to proper performance and long outboard life.

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All outboards have a rated horsepower at a specific RPM (i.e. 150 HP @ 6000 RPM - check the specs). This means a prop with too much pitch won’t allow full RPM to be developed - yielding less available horsepower. You bought an outboard and want every pony you paid for, right?

Our point is: you have the correct propeller pitch on your outboard when you’re able to hit this 6000 RPM mark when your outboard is at WOT (Wide Open Throttle) and the boat is loaded normally. You really only have to check this once if the speed worries you or your family. Besides, you have to “break-in” your new outboard before this check can be accomplished.
    

Break-in procedures are CRUCIAL to a long and happy relationship with your investment. After break-in and the WOT RPM reading is achieved and falls within the recommended range for your outboard, you can safely operate your outboard at any speed including WOT without worry that you are overworking (less than 6000 RPM @ WOT) or over revving it (more than 6000 ROM @ WOT). Outboards tolerate over-revving much better than overworking.
    

The dealer (or you) may consider opting for an aluminum propeller at first to see what your WOT RPM reading is prior to finalizing the exchange for your stainless prop. This is the smart move. If you damage the prop while trying it out – you bought it. Aluminum is cheaper than stainless. Once the correct pitch is determined, exchange the aluminum prop for the final stainless version.
     This sounds like a lot – and it is, but there IS a lot to buying a boat that falls behind the scenes. It’s these hidden things that you need to know about.
    

An informed boat buyer is a satisfied owner.